uruguay was a spectator sport.  i had to watch everything from a distance.  i had just lost judas who was normally in charge of introducing me to everyone and so it is not surprising that i only met one old man.  i have, regardless, a sneaking suspicion that uruguay is as interesting as i found it beautiful.

there are apparently no tobacco lobbies in south america.  almost all the cigarette cartons have dramatic statements like this one or some disturbing photo.  there are no anemic warnings littered with the subjunctive like in the states.   my favorites were:  "warning! these cigarettes are killing you!", "smoking makes you impotent!" and "smoking causes gangrene!"  why this particular warning was written in english i'm not completely certain.  uruguay only speaks spanish. 

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